Visit to Valley of the Kings, etc.

That evening we flew to Luxor, the ancient capital of Thebes. The flight was about one hour and fifteen minutes. We didn’t arrive at the hotel and have dinner until after 10:00 p.m. The hotel was the Mercure. Our room was hot, the air conditioning did not go on until about 2:00 a.m. but worked after that We spent two nights there.
The food in Egypt was presented so beautifully but we couldn’t eat the salads because the food is washed in Nile water which is ver contaminated. Because of the Aswan Dam, the river does not run as swiftly as before to cleanse itself. We were told not even to run our fingers in the water if we were riding in a boat. We could only eat cooked food and peeled food. The hotel in Cairo peeled their cucumbers so we could eat them. Once or twice I cut the outside off of the tomatoes and ate them. Our meals were mostly served buffet style and we had a choice of chicken, beef and some lamb which was delicious.
Thursday, July 9, we had breakfast at 7 a.m., our usual time, and took the bus to the Valley of the Kings, crossing the Nile on a new bridge opened just last year. Many people live on the West Bank of the Nile but no one in the area of the Valley of the Kings. We drove through a range of mountains to the valley and it is SO DESOLATE. Not a singe blade of grass or little weed grown there. We were able to visit three tombs, and then the tomb of Tutankhamen. His is the only mummy in the Valley of the Kings. It is encased in one of his three gold coffins, covered with glass. It is very hot and sunny there. No flies or bugs but many pests (vendors). Our guide in Luxor is Refat, very knowledgeable. He can read the hieroglyphics on the walls of the tombs and explained what was written.
After finding that pyramids could not keep out thieves, the pharaohs decided to build tombs, hiding the entrances, in the desolate desert. That didn’t work either. They then decided to place guards in front of their tombs but the guards did the stealing. There is a village perched on the side of the hills that the government wants to move out There is no running water and new modern housing was built for them. They won’t move because at night, illegally, they dig under their houses for old tombs and treasure.
We visited the Ramesseum, the temple of Ramses II. It is a very large complex with a huge statue of Ramses II lying on its side. It is the largest statue of him, made of rose granite.
We also saw the Colossi of Memnon. They really are the statues of Amenophis II, which stood outside a palace, destroyed in the earthquake of 27 b.c.
We drove by the monument of Queen Hatshepsut (we were told to say "Hot-Cheap-Suit" to remember how to say her name. We were not able to visit it; it was the sight of some shootings earlier in the year. It is a very beautiful monument, very different from any other in Egypt. Behind her monument one can see trails going over the mountain to the Valley of the Kings, the only way into the place in olden times. I could see Amelia Peabody trudging over these hills.
That evening we were supposed to take a sail in a felucca on the Nile. The river runs north and the winds blow south so one can usually go in any direction. That day there was no wind. We were pulled out from the bank by two fellows in galabeeyas, the long robes used by men, then one fellow, with rope in hand, hopped on anchored boats and pulled us out into the river. There a diesel-powered boat towed us up the Nile. The boat eventually was towing three sail boats and spewing out black, stinky smoke. After awhile we were turned loose but instead of going downstream with current, the fellows started rowing us towards the shore. I guess if we had just gone with the current we would have passed by our anchorage. When we finally got close to shore, out jumped one man again and started to pull us in towards the bank, again hopping on the anchored pleasure boats. They were anchored because tourism was way down and were not in use. It was quite hilarious watching the man pull the boat to shore. Instead of a sail on the Nile we had a tow on the Nile.
As we drove on the west bank we saw the houses where Lord Carnavron and Howard Carter lived while searching for tombs. In Luxor, we drove past the Winter Palace, a famous hotel, and the Chicago House.